Boury feels less like a chef's vanity project than a deeply controlled family house, where the calm of the room lets the cooking do the flexing. Tim Boury's food is contemporary and French-inflected, but the Belgian setting matters: North Sea fish, vegetables, dairy and carefully tuned sauces all appear with a sense of local proportion. There is glamour here, certainly, yet the meal works because it never mistakes polish for personality. The pleasure is in how composed everything feels without becoming cold.