Atelier Moessmer is Norbert Niederkofler's 'Cook the Mountain' philosophy given an intimate, highly focused home in Brunico. The cooking refuses the easy clichés of Alpine comfort, instead asking what mountain cuisine can become when it is local, seasonal and unsentimental. Grains, herbs, dairy, freshwater fish, roots and preserved ingredients carry the meal, often with startling elegance. It feels rigorous, almost monastic at times, but never thin. The reward is a new idea of luxury: altitude, restraint and total commitment.