Da Vittorio is the Cerea family at full volume: generous, polished, theatrical and deeply Italian in its belief that pleasure should not be rationed. The Brusaporto setting is elegant, but the meal's energy comes from a kitchen equally comfortable with seafood, pasta, sauces, pastry and the kind of hospitality that makes abundance feel choreographed. It is not minimalist fine dining and does not pretend to be. The charm is in the sweep: family, craft, luxury and conviviality all arriving with impeccable timing.