La Pergola has Rome laid out below it, and the restaurant knows exactly how to use that sense of elevation. Heinz Beck's cooking is Mediterranean in spirit but Germanic in control, turning seafood, vegetables, pasta, herbs and impeccable sauces into plates that feel light despite the grandeur around them. The room, wine cellar and view all announce luxury; the kitchen's gift is keeping the food graceful. It is the rare panoramic restaurant where the cooking can hold its own against the city.