RyuGin is modern Japanese cuisine on a grand Tokyo stage. Seiji Yamamoto's cooking respects the seasonal grammar of kaiseki while using contemporary technique to heighten, compress or dramatize familiar ideas. The move to Hibiya gave the restaurant a sleeker setting, but the heart remains Japanese: fish, broth, rice, vegetables, wild ingredients and an almost theatrical sense of sequence. It can be lavish, but the strongest moments are those where innovation serves a very old seasonal instinct.