The first thing to know about Sushi Masa is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, matched with the ambitions of a sushi-focused restaurant. Readers should look for fish quality, rice craft and a tightly paced counter experience, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.