The first thing to know about Manhatta is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in New York, United States, matched with the ambitions of a contemporary fine-dining restaurant. Readers should look for chef-led composition, pacing and a distinct point of view, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.