Auberge du Vieux Puits is the kind of restaurant that makes a tiny Corbières village feel like the center of the map. Gilles Goujon's cooking has always had a mischievous streak: rustic ingredients refined without being sanitized, bold southern flavors polished until they gleam, and dishes that are as likely to wink as to impress. The room may be far from the usual capitals of French gastronomy, but that distance is part of the charge. This is destination dining with dirt roads still in view.