La Table du Castellet has the serenity of a grand Provençal retreat, but the cooking is anything but sleepy. The restaurant draws on the light, herbs, vegetables and coastal abundance of the Var, then filters them through a sleek contemporary French vocabulary. What makes the meal persuasive is its sense of elevation without escape: you still feel the South, from olive and citrus notes to sun-warmed produce, but everything has been tightened, brightened and paced for a special-occasion dining room.